Ranked guides to the places in Tehran worth an evening — and the people to go with.
Independent cafes across Tajrish, Yousefabad, Karim Khan and Sa'adat Abad where you can work, talk and become a regular.
Sofrekhaneh with carpets, samovars, dizi and backgammon — the slowest and best places to talk in the city.
Where the city walks, sits and talks — from Mellat and Laleh to the hillside terraces of Jamshidieh.
Darband, Darakeh, Tochal and the Alborz routes that start inside the city.
Tajrish, the Grand Bazaar and the neighbourhood markets where shopping is a conversation.
TMoCA, the Iranian Artists Forum and the Friday gallery circuit.
