Tehran is denser and greyer than its reputation, and the parks are where it exhales. They are also where a surprising amount of the city's social life happens: morning walkers in packs, chess and backgammon tables, families with flasks of tea, students on benches between classes, and in the evenings a crowd that treats the park as the living room the apartments do not have.
For a newcomer they are the least intimidating public space in the city. Nobody needs a reason to be there, sitting alone is normal, and repeat visits at the same hour will start producing nods and then conversations.
