Tehran has one of the strongest independent cafe cultures in the region, and socially it does the job that pubs do elsewhere. There is no alcohol-centred nightlife here, so the cafe is where people sit for three hours, argue about films, work on a laptop, take a first meeting and get to know each other. Almost every Tehran friendship has a cafe attached to it.
The map is roughly this: Karim Khan and the streets around it for book cafes and long stays; Yousefabad for the student and creative crowd at low prices; Vali-e Asr and Gandhi for the after-work north-city crowd; Sa'adat Abad and Vanak for bright, laptop-friendly rooms; Tajrish for cafes with mountain air and a walk attached.
The one rule that matters more than any recommendation below: pick one and go weekly. Regulars get talked to. Visitors do not.
