Tehran's art scene is serious, and unusually for this city it has a public rhythm you can simply walk into. Galleries open new shows on Friday afternoons, the same crowd moves between them, and looking at a painting next to a stranger is one of the few socially frictionless ways to start a conversation here.
Beyond the openings, the museums give you the other half: a permanent collection of modern Western and Iranian art in Laleh Park that most visitors do not believe exists until they see it, a carpet museum next door, palace complexes in the north, and a growing set of private galleries in Elahiyeh and around Karim Khan.
