A bazaar trip is one of the best first outings you can propose to someone you barely know. It has a purpose, a route, food stops and constant distraction, which removes almost all the pressure from a new friendship. It is also how Tehranis actually shop: the supermarkets have not displaced saffron, nuts, herbs and fish from the bazaar.
Tajrish in the north is the manageable one — compact, bright, next to the Imamzadeh Saleh shrine and a metro stop. The Grand Bazaar in the south is the epic one, a covered city of ten kilometres of corridors organised by trade, best attempted with half a day and no schedule. In between are neighbourhood markets and the weekly produce markets (meydan-e tarehbar) that every district has.
